How can you tell if something is structural in your home before tearing down a wall?

7 Comments

1. Bonno says:

   November 30, 2009 at 12:23 am

   look in the attic & see what is resting on it
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2. saved_by_grace says:

   November 30, 2009 at 12:52 am

   Get a general contractor to look at it before tearing it down. You do not want to make that mistake. If it is a load bearing wall……..it could be very costly in the long run.
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3. MyKidsMom says:

   November 30, 2009 at 1:38 am

   I believe a load bearing wall is one that runs the same direction (horizontal or verticle with the foundation or rafter beams.
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4. michael_54550 says:

   November 30, 2009 at 2:22 am

   ugggggh the people who answer questions and haven’t a clue. Ok here is the deal, first any electrical in the wall?? And plumbing lines, vent pipes, heat duct, if not then sure go ahead. Remember if it is load bearing will need to install a header above double 2×6 with plywood between them, should be fine for than little of a span.
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5. Debbie M says:

   November 30, 2009 at 2:32 am

   Load bearing walls can go in any direction in relation to your floor or ceiling joists. If it runs along a joist and that joist is doubled it could be a load bearing. Also see what is above it. If you know who built your house and it is newer you could perhaps call the builder and get the mechanical or architectural drawings.

   It is best to get some one who DOES know before you cut anything. Serious damage can occur.
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6. dtwladyhawk says:

   November 30, 2009 at 3:19 am

   Obviously you are determined to do this so you’ll need a 4 by 4 to put in the center to hold it up while you build a ‘header’ to replace the wall that is on a load bearing wall. (this is after you tear down the wall, immediately put the 4 by 4 in )
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   been there done that
7. Robert M says:

   November 30, 2009 at 3:32 am

   Whether it is a load Bering wall or not, you should build a carrying beam across the open section.

   First, I would strip the wall down to the studs. Strip off a wider section than you want the finished opening to be. You’ll have to do some measuring. Put in two studs from top to bottom about 6 inches wider that you finished opening. Then cut two jack studs to the height of the finished opening plus one inch or so (for your trim board and/or sheet-rock). Nail them to the new studs you put in. Next make a carrying beam. I would use a pair of 2×6′s standing om edge nailed to the two studs. You may want to use heavier lumber if it is a bearing wall. Another idea is to use a piece of 1/2 inch plywood between two pieces of dimensional lumber for added strength.

   Now you put in some studs on top of your carrying beam to the joists that go over your opening to support them.

   You are now ready to finish your opening and you don’t need to worry about something above you sagging.

   You don’t need to call a structural engineer for a five foot opening.
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   25 years as a handy man and DIY’er